Warning! This account may go on for some time ... remember you can just look at the photos if you click on them!
Day 1 (Fri) of our holiday finally dawned - looking bright and sunny. The first rendezvous point with the friends who were coming with us was in the cafe of the Vanishing Willows Garden Centre by the Erskine Bridge, Glasgow. As always the cafe delivered with good food and service. Refreshments over we set off in tandem ... (no pun intended but you will see why I say that later!) ... crossing over the bridge and heading for Loch Lomond. She looked serene and idyllic as we drove along the shore, negotiating the bends and oncoming traffic. We were making good time until just before Crianlarich when we began to notice signs in the verge announcing a cycle race today. No problem you might think but the ride that day was travelling via Crianlarich and Glencoe to Fort William - just as we were planning to do!! We soon began to meet cyclists - it is quite a wide road but it was not always easy to pass the cyclists safely.
The Real Food Cafe at Tyndrum was another previously visited establishment with our seal of approval so it was decided to pause here. The cafe is always busy - a sign of the award-winning, local food they offer.
You will have heard of villages and towns being twinned with a similar place in another country - well the Real Food Cafe have their toilets twinned!
Different!!
After delicious refreshments we moved on to the winding roads leading across Rannoch Moor towards Glencoe. Unfortunately we had to negotiate hundreds of cyclists as well as the usual traffic and our progress really slowed, at times to a crawl. Even the spectacular scenery could not compensate for the frustration we were feeling at going so slowly. Fort William finally came and went and shortly after that we finally saw the cyclists turn off the road to their resting place for the night!!
Our schedule was now running very late but on we went - alongside Loch Ness until we reached Fort Augustus. Our friends are canal enthusiasts so a wander by the canal was a good place to stretch our legs and admire the scenery. Two boats happened to pass through the locks as we watched and then it was time to move on. There was still a long way to go.
We began to make good time as we moved on and Braemore junction soon appeared with the last few miles into Ullapool ahead. Having been to this area many times before the scenery, and the twists and turns of the road, became very familiar. Our lodging for the night appeared on the last stretch of road and our drivers were very glad to see it! Checking-in completed we ventured into Ullapool for food. Having been here before we knew where to head for delicious fish and chips - and yet again we were not disappointed. Crisp batter around juicy fish, with tasty chips was just as good as we remembered.
The journey and its trials and tribulations receded and the optimism for an exciting enjoyable holiday returned!
Day 2 (Sat) dawned after a good night's sleep at our B&B. Breakfast was delicious, setting us up for the day. The breakfast room looked out over the loch, which looked very calm. We were glad to see this as we were off on the ferry to Harris& Lewis but unfortunately the drizzle began too - but our spirits were high.
Checking in for the ferry gave time to take a few photos of unchanging Ullapool. It may not be very big but it is a lovely place, always lots to watch. It wasn't long before the ferry suddenly appeared and shortly after she unloaded the incoming traffic, we were moving onto the deck. We are always amazed at how efficiently the crew get all the cars, lorries etc onto the ferry.
Despite the calm look of the sea, the journey from Ullapool to Stornoway was not the smoothest we had ever experienced! There was a definite rise and fall with the swell of the sea but we chose to stay seated for most of the journey, rather than wander about! Many people around us were also feeling the effects of the sea to some degree.
By the time the ferry (Loch Seaforth) docked in Stornoway the drizzle we had experienced in Ullapool had abated. The sun was trying to shine and everyone's spirits lifted again. Having found a nice cafe to refresh ourselves, a supermarket to do basic shopping and the local Tourist Information Office we were ready to head off to Scalpay. Scalpay is a 2.5sq mile island and is connected to Lewis and Harris by a single track bridge.
Lewis and Harris is an island in the Outer Hebrides. The northern part of the island is called Lewis while the southern is know as Harris. They are often referred to as if they are different islands but they are not. We therefore had to drive through Lewis before reaching Harris and the Scalpay bridge.
Lewis is fairly flat with many lochs, and roads stretching out as far as you can see. It is only as we neared Harris that the scenery changed and a more hilly landscape appeared.A beautiful sunny afternoon had now developed with blue sky and fluffy white clouds.
As we turned off in the direction of Scalpay we saw more of the coastline in the distance and then we glimpsed the bridge. What a sight! ... and then we were driving over it! Scalpay is not a big island but it has a very rocky shoreline with seaweed turning an autumnal yellow/orange colour. There are houses dotted about the island and the roads meander up and down and back and forward around hills and rocks. We finally found our accommodation for the week and unpacked in the sun and the quiet! Not a sound to be heard as we stood outside the cottage. What could be better? The sky after dark was another spectacle - it was a clear night (with no wind) and the sky was absolutely full of stars.
Day 3 (Sun) dawned dry, calm and sunny. Time to investigate our immediate surroundings - ie go up the hill behind the cottage. It was not a steep hill as such and there was only a slight track, probably made by the sheep as they wandered backwards and forwards! But what a view ...
We watched seals laying on the rocks in the sun and swimming in the turquoise water. The view was a stunning 360° panorama.
Being Sunday we knew that many places would be closed - the island still adheres to Sunday closing for many shops. The island is also famous for its beaches, so an afternoon trip to a beach while the weather was good, seemed a good plan.
We passed by what used to be a Whaling Station before travelling along a narrow, winding road with passing places and blind rises where oncoming traffic couldn't be seen until the last minute.
We passed through a very imposing gatehouse and passed by Amhuinnsuidhe Castle - wondering if we were on the right road!
The road continued - up and down and round corners until finally the beach came into sight - Huisinis Beach was certainly worth the drive. We could even see porpoises leaping in the water by the cliffs too.
We wandered along white sands listening to the quiet whoosh of the water as it rippled onto the beach with hardly a breeze.
Even the seaweed was a beautiful pink colour, blending into the colour of the sand.
Day 4 (Mon) We had decided that as we were so close it would be rude not to go and visit some of the other islands. Travelling to North and South Uist would also mean visiting Bernaray and Benbecula.We had booked our ferry tickets and had been eagerly watching the weather forecast! It was not a long crossing from Leverburgh to Bernaray but the smoother the better in our opinion. We were very lucky as the day again dawned calm and sunny, but it was an early start as it was a one hour drive to catch the ferry at 8.30!!
The water was as calm as we could have hoped for and a short ride via the ferry, Loch Portain, soon took us to Bernaray where a causeway connected that island to North Uist. Driving across North Uist and then South Uist was beautiful, passing still lochs full of reflections, deserted ruins of homesteads, impressive statues and modern technologies alongside the modern communities.
The southern tip of South Uist is joined by another causeway to the Isle of Eriskay. Only a tiny island but well worth a visit for the beaches and the view of the Isle of Barra (famous for its airport on the beach).
The return journey was as inspiring as the outward one - we couldn't have picked a better day for some island-hopping.
Day 5 (Tues) The day began with cloud and mist on the top of the hills and more wind than we had experienced up to now.
We began with a visit to the Callanish Stones, an ancient stone circle the purpose of which no-one really understands, but what an awesome sight.
How much better the scenery looks when the sun finally comes out!
The main town and port on the Isle of Harris is Stornoway. The sheltered harbour is the reason Stornoway exists having been named "Steering Bay" by the Vikings. (Phonetically translated this becomes the name Stornoway.) As it is the main town on the island it has a range of facilities and reminders of times old and new.
After a look around the town we headed off to the lighthouse at Point, designed by engineer David Stevenson - a member of the famous Stevenson family responsible for many of the lighthouses commissioned by the Northern Lighthouse Board that are found around our shores. Tiumpan Head lighthouse once had a fog signal (first sounded by Prince Charles in 1965) The light was automated in 1985 and some of the buildings within the complex have now been sold and house kennels for cats and dogs.
On a clear day it is possible to see mountains on the mainland of Scotland - we could just about make them out!
We finally had our first sighting of some deer on the hillside today - having regularly seen gannets, seals, porpoises and a variety of other birdlife.
Day 6 (Wed) After a night of rain and wind, everywhere was very misty this morning, so not a morning for walking very far! It was expedition time to go down some dead-end roads - just to see what was there!
The community-owned Ravenspoint Centre sits on the shore of Loch Erisort and runs a hostel, shop and cafe. Unfortunately the cafe was closed (as the season was officially over!) but we discovered that as well as these facilities the centre offered a range of exhibitions about local culture and history and housed the Angus Macleod Archive.The archive was Angus' research into community populations, stories, place names,genealogies and local industries and access is available to all his records at the centre.
After time spent looking around the centre we set off along the South Lochs Road, passing through little villages such as Marvig and Gravir. The communities here sit right by the water and have stunning views out to sea.
As we drove along the roads there was much evidence of previous generations and homesteads in the fields alongside the newer communities.
Then, as compensation for a misty, drizzly day we were rewarded with a beautiful sunset ...
Day 7 (Thur) was forecast to be a much better day weatherwise and looking out of the window first thing looked very promising ...
... so the famous beach at Luskentyre was our destination. A craft fair and the coffee shop in Tarbert proved minor distractions, but then we were off. The sun was now shining, there was hardly any breeze and anticipation was high.
What a stunning beach - it stretched as far as the eye could see and the white sand and turquoise water was just beautiful.
As you can see it was very busy!! and who says a beach in Scotland in September can't be warm, still, sunny and dry?
Dragging ourselves away was quite difficult, it was so peaceful we could have sat there all day.
However ... the Golden Road was calling too. This single track road twists and turns through the East coast of Harris and the scenery is very rocky hence its description as a "lunar landscape." There are many small lochs and inlets along the shore and this area is also sometimes called the Bays because of this.
There is much discussion as to what the golden road means but it seems to have been the first tarred road - perhaps named because of the expense? Others think it was a phrase coined by newspapers on the mainland complaining about building any road on the islands!
Must mention the Bays Centre here - a community run cafe offering teas, coffee and home baking. We stumbled upon it as we were passing but what a find. Very friendly local ladies volunteering every afternoon during the summer months. Delicious baking and friendly chat.
Day 8 (Fri) Not such nice weather today - misty and drizzly - but we felt we had been very lucky all week with the weather so weren't going to complain. Our excursion today was recommended by a stall holder at the craft fair yesterday. A visit to Talla Na Mara studios. This is a new community-owned venue, a short walk from another stunning beach with views across the Sound of Taransay.
We ventured on to Leverburgh and Rodel, a peaceful, sheltered harbour right at the southern end of Harris.
The most intriguing sight in Rodel is St Clements Church, a late 15th or early 16th church built for the MacLeods of Harris who lived in Dunvegan Castle, Skye. The 8th Chief prepared a magnificent wall tomb for himself in the church, with an arch and ornate carvings of biblical design. There are more MacLeod tombs in other parts of the church and many others in the graveyard outside.
The church was finally restored by the Countess of Dunmore in 1873 and the tower was rebuilt in 1913 after damage from a lightning strike in 1907. Today Historic Scotland look after the site.
It may be a remote site but there were many people, either on tours or individually, who were interested and wanting to look around the church.
On the way home we again stopped at the Bays Centre for refreshments - and were greeted like long lost friends. Shame they weren't nearer to our cottage - we might have been there even more often during the week!
There were a few "unusual" sights that made us smile as we travelled around today - (don't forget we were in very isolated parts of Harris when we saw these!) How often do you see a C road signposted, or a caution sign for wheelchairs?? (We couldn't decide whether we had to be on the lookout for wheelchairs using the road or whether it was the wheelchairs that were the danger to us!) I know pay-as-you-look telescopes are not unusual - but in the middle of nowhere? And obviously someone got fed up standing while waiting for the bus.
Day 9 (Sat) The last day of our holiday began with a lovely sunrise ...
but we were having to going home, so it meant another ferry ride - from Tarbert to Uig on Skye. We were glad to see the weather was dry and the sea calm as we checked in to the ferry terminal. A short wait gave us time to look around the tweed shop, which we had managed to avoid all week (not on purpose I hasten to add!) and revisit the coffee shop.
Driving through Skye was as spectacular as ever, especially as the wind had got up and was blowing a gale! The further south on the island we got the windier it was.
The Aros Centre provided us with a suitable place to stop on our journey but the route then had to be adjusted as the ferry from Armadale to Mallaig had been cancelled because of the weather. How lucky that the island now had a bridge to connect it to the mainland (even if that caused extra mileage on our journey.)
We had thoroughly enjoyed our holiday - as the sign had wished us when we first crossed the bridge to Scalpay.
Scalpay is a beautiful island in the Outer Hebrides.The weather was good, the panoramic views (taking in mountains, seascapes and countryside) were spectacular - and the roads were some of the best we had driven on for a long time. It was almost the end of the week before we found a pothole!!! There was something to be seen around every corner - we saw porpoises, seals, deer, diving gannets and an abundance of bird life without having to go searching for it.Dedicated trips to see other wildlife were available in a variety of places but we had no time. A wonderful holiday.
