Bright sunshine as we set off on our holiday to Arran - the largest island in the Firth of Clyde. With a population of less than 5000, it is often referred to as Scotland in Miniature. The island is divided into lowlands and highlands by the Highland Boundary Fault and is a favoured destination by geologists.
Before we reached the ferry port of Ardrossan however we stopped off at RSPB Lochwinnoch. Very close to Glasgow it has woodland walks and wetlands to watch a variety of birds. As we were only pausing here today we made do with sitting in the tower that overlooks the water. No great number or rarity of birds to watch today but soothing all the same.
Moving on we soon reached Ardrossan and set sail on the Caledonian Isles for what was the calmest crossing we can remember. The water was still, the sun continued to shine causing the sea to sparkle in all directions. We were easily tempted up on to the top deck where dolphins or porpoises were spotted along with several flocks of birds. What seemed like a very short voyage soon ended with the call back to our cars - as Brodick hove into view.
Having been to the cottage before we knew where we were going and the String (this is what the road is called!) took us down the valley towards Blackwaterfoot, with steep hills on either side that were beginning to show some autumn colour. The cottage sits very close to the shore so the view is the first sight that claims your attention, and what a view across the Kilbrennan Sound to the Mull of Kintyre! The sea was very calm, just whooshing gently against the rocks as we stood mesmerised. We eventually dragged ourselves away to unpack the cars and settle in, although it didn't take long for the view to draw us back. Sitting in comfort while watching the sun go down and the stars appear was a wonderful end to day 1. The plough and Cassiopeia were right above us along with thousands more and we even put out the moth trap!
Sunday didn't begin quite as sunny as yesterday and there weren't hordes of moths in the trap but we did get a Setaceous Hebrew Character and a Rosy Rustic, which are always nice to see.
As there is only a narrow lawn between the cottage and the beach we were drawn to go for a walk along the shore. Pebbles and rocks are everywhere but it is very clean, no litter or rubbish washed in on the tide. Although it is also very sandy there are very few shells to be found but plenty of coloured stones and lots of jellyfish washed up and stranded. After our wander we went to the golf club - not for golf - but previous visits meant we knew the tea room here was well worth going to. Arran has 7 golf courses and several of them have tea rooms attached that are open to the public. All those we have visited also have delicious home baking available!
Shiskine Golf Club is a 12 hole links course with wonderful scenery and very friendly staff. If only we were golfers I'm sure it would be well worth the green fees!
On Monday we woke to grey cloud and rain so a visit to the Heritage Museum in Brodick was our choice - and what a good choice it proved to be. Farm machinery on display outdoors along with a 'bathing hut,' and a schoolroom and café indoors. Taking advantage of the refreshments on offer we though we only had a little more to see - but we were wrong! The museum is housed in the old school but there was a smiddy and a croft along with several other buildings here that the museum has converted to house a huge range of displays. Well laid out and beautifully looked after, the volunteers do a grand job in a museum that is well worth a visit.
Moving on to Brodick the weather began to improve although Goat Fell still had its woolly hat on. At 2,867ft it is the highest of the Arran mountains, linked by ridges to other peaks in the range. A very popular walk with visitors but taking 4-5 hours to complete it was not a walk we were going to do! We checked out a few of the retail establishments - including the chocolate shop, where a few samples were purchased for later. We had to try the local ice cream too - just so we would know whether to buy any more during the holiday! Needless to say both were given our seal of approval. The sun was shining by now and the day finished with a lovely sunset, so the moth trap went out again!
A beautiful morning again on Tuesday, still and calm warming as the sun came out.
Twice as many moths this morning including a Hedge Rustic, which was a new moth for us!
Travelling the String Road to Brodick we then took the shore road, heading for the distillery at Lochranza. A gentle ride through Corrie and Sannox took us to the north of the island. Passing the harbour and ferry port and the ruins of Lochranza Castle we had our first sightings of red deer - roaming around the golf course! The distillery has been open since 1995 and a new second distillery has been opened this year at the other end of the island. Our visit did not include a tour of the distillery but we did frequent the café and shop. A gentle ride down the other side of the island led us home again, although the wind had got up and the rain appeared. The wind continued to get stronger and stronger as the evening went on and the rain got heavier and heavier until the Mull of Kintyre disappeared altogether!
As we travelled around half the island yesterday we decided it would only be fair to do the other half today and visit the new distillery too. We thought there was a coffee morning to call in at on the way - but we got that wrong! - and had to look for an alternative. Not difficult to do as there are plenty of cafes (Calling at refreshment establishments will be an ongoing feature of this blog!) We moved on through Whiting Bay to reach the southern end of the island and Lagg Distillery. As the building only opened earlier this year the landscaping still has to mature, but the building is stunning. Very modern and contemporary. As with the other distillery we didn't do the tour - or the café as we had just eaten - but had a good wander around.
A stall by the side of the road then proved to be a little gem. Fresh vegetables displayed in a shed with an honesty box for payment (there was at least one ten-pound note in the box when we added our payment) How very trusting - and it turned out to be delicious veg too.
Back at the cottage we still had time for a stroll along the beach but the wind was very, very strong against us as we struggled along. What a relief to turn around and get blown home!
It was pouring with rain - and I mean pouring! - on Thursday morning so even our expedition to the shops had to be done in the car. We called in at the local bakehouse and were amused to read their sign in the window - open from 9.30 until 1.30 or until they sold out! They had a variety of organic loaves and cakes made with wild yeasts. The smell was delicious - and so was the bread.
After lunch, when the weather did look to be improving we thought a walk might be a good idea - to try and burn off some of the calories we were consuming! We found a walk on the other side of the island but unfortunately the weather hadn't improved quite so much over there. The walk along the wooded shore was on a loose gravel track and was rather damp in the drizzle that was still clinging to the hills. We were looking for the originally-named 'Fallen Rocks' Finally reaching them we could see why they were so named. The giant boulders had obviously fallen from the huge cliff down onto the shore, and were full of small and large pebbles. Quite dramatic, as were the crevices and holes worn in the rock on the shore at their base.
Walking back to the car the weather improved dramatically and the hot sun made our coats redundant. Brilliant sunshine at home meant the moth trap went out again.
Friday was another beautiful sunny morning with no breeze as we emptied the trap. Only 7 moths again but 3 Lunar Underwings were worth seeing.
With the weather so good we had to go walking again. The King's Cave is along the beach from the cottage and was chosen as our adventure today. We decided to drive to the official car park at the top of the cliff and walk back to the cottage - and collect the car later. We set off from the car park on a track that gradually climbed up through the forest. The floor of the forest on both sides was covered in fungi, like a carpet in places. The different sizes, colours and varieties were amazing to see.
On attaining the top of the incline we reached a gate where the track suddenly narrowed, with thick bracken on both sides, and became much more uneven. It also began to descend steeply so care was needed, but it was hard when the view in front of us was so amazing.
We zig-zagged down the hillside until we reached the rocks and boulders on the shore. Negotiating them we finally saw the caves in the huge sandstone rockface. There are a series of caves that go quite a way back into the cliff, including the King' Cave, which is said to be where Robert the Bruce had his famous encounter with the spider. The walls are absolutely covered with carvings and graffiti, including a huge cross.
Rather than climb back up the cliff we walked along the shore towards the Doon. The Doon is a hillfort from the Iron Age on the headland known as Drumadoon Point. There are huge cliffs on the seaward side and there was originally a wall about 3 feet thick around the rest of the site.
Reaching the Doon we had to decide whether to scramble over the boulders along the shore or go up on to the top of the hill and through the golf course. Having previously done the scramble we decided to go up the hill - not sure it was the right decision! Thankfully the terrain on the top was much flatter but by the time we got back to the cottage we were ready to just fall into our chairs! A rest and lunch remedied the situation and the attraction of tea and cake out somewhere was irresistible. We even shopped for a barbecue as the weather was good but the dreaded midges drove us back indoors.
Saturday offered us a very strange sky to start the day - it just looked like pleated cotton wool!
After spending some time watching and photographing them we finally headed off to Brodick Castle. We have never visited the castle on our other visits to Arran so today was time to put that right. The castle has actually been closed for the last couple of years for improvements and renovations. We began in the garden - just in case the rain came. A walled garden gives the plants some protection from the worst of the weather and therefore contains some quite tender specimens. Well planned and tended, the gardens are incredible. I don't know how many gardeners there are but they do a very good job.
Wandering around the gardens outside the walls we found some unusual plants and structures in the grounds of the castle.
Despite not having explored everywhere, when we came to the steps up to the castle we went in to investigate. A wonderful looking building set on top of the slope up from the garden.
Inside the castle we wandered from room to room looking at how the Hamilton family lived above and below stairs. Although there were guides within the castle they were not intrusive but were very friendly and knowledgeable if you talked to them. Somewhere to come back to if we return to Arran as there are sure to be things we missed.
After departing the castle we continued along the coastal road heading north (through Corrie towards Lochranza again) Coming down the hill we met several cyclists (of the 200) taking part in a charity run going around the whole island. The road is rather steep at this point and I wouldn't fancy riding, or even walking, up it - and judging by the look on some of their faces, the cyclists were finding it hard too!
At Lochranza we took a short detour round the harbour until the road ran out. Lochranza Castle is a ruined tower house standing on a spit of land projecting out into Loch Ranza. It has been disused since the 1700's and is cared for by Historic Environment Scotland.
There are a group of red deer that roam freely around the golf course here, - and the other green-keepers were busy too.
We sat and watched the ferry arrive, and then depart, with goosanders dipping and diving in front of us, before moving on and completing our journey.
A strange encounter on the way back were a group of peacocks and a posing seal. We had seen the peacocks on previous visits but were surprised to find they were still in the same place, around a derelict farm. There were male and female birds and even one juvenile.
Not at all what you expect as you come round the corner! The seal was just sitting there waiting for people to take its photo, so we had to oblige didn't we?
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