Tuesday 1 October 2019

Arran Week 2 September 2019



Sunday proved to be a very lazy day with a misty drizzle falling for most of the morning.


It did improve slightly in the afternoon but we couldn't be bothered to move very far. We did spot the otter among the rocks for a short time but otherwise it was 2 swans drifting past and the seal bobbing in the water - as they have done most days. We have seen a good few different birds during the last week visiting the beach or the wall and post in the garden. We have had oystercatchers roaming up and down the shore, along with pipits, pied wagtails, curlew, goosander, ringed plover, turnstones and gulls. Cormorants and gannets fly past regularly, occasionally diving into the water and the robin frequently sits on the garden post. Our most amazing sight so far has to the sparrowhawk that came and sat on the wall right in front of the window. No time to take a photo - it had gone almost before I realised what it was!


A much more pleasant morning greeted us on Monday when we looked out of the window. Calm water , no wind and a clear sky. The decision was made not to be lazy today but to walk while the weather was good. We had passed a waterfall the other day that looked interesting with a flat path next to the river, so we thought we would investigate. A dramatic waterfall goes through rocks and under a bridge, but in the opposite direction heads off towards a forest. A well-trodden path, although not always very even, follows the water towards the forest. Heading off we met several small tributaries that joined the main water and in places the river bed was made of huge, flat boulders. The water was very brown as it flowed through the peaty ground into the main body of water. The water flows in a series of small falls through the rocks and in places is quite dramatic. After rain they must look quite spectacular!


Passing through an old deer gate we plodded on up the path. It soon became more of a gravel track and began to climb even more steeply so we finally had to call a halt and turn around. Our legs and lungs were protesting too much. Dragonflies were whizzing across the heather as we walked back and one even sat for a few minutes to give us a good siting. We later learned this was a male Common Hawker.


We may not have climbed up that hill to the top but we did wander at lower levels a short while later. Crossing stepping stones we found the beach at Sannox. A beautiful sandy beach that was warm in the sunshine. Wandering along we came to an outcrop of rock that we clambered over, looking at the rocks and in the pools.


We then spotted a seal in the water, fairly close to the shore, and then couldn't believe our luck when it swam to the shore and shuffled out onto the pebbles. It continued to haul itself over the pebbles until it reached the smooth sand - and then just sat there! We were only 20-30 feet away by now and it just looked at us, yawned and totally ignored us. This is my usual spot it seemed to be saying! Leaving it in peace we moved away and continued on our way, but what an experience!


Following such a nice day for weather the moth trap went out again.
Another clear sky and calm water greeted us the next morning. The trap yielded 12 moths this morning  - our greatest catch so far. 9 of those were Lunar Underwings!


Mesmerising as the water was, we forced ourselves to leave the cottage and go for a walk. Kildonan is a small village towards the south of the island with just a few parking spaces by the shore. We wandered through the village to follow the seaweed covered track under the tall cliffs. There are numerous rocky outcrops reaching into the water and seaweed-covered sand between the rocks. Looking over the water you can see the majestic Ailsa Craig and Pladda lighthouse.


Shells are everywhere on the sands and the walking is easy along the grass field right next to the beach. Then we spotted them ….. seals sitting on many of the rocks out in the water and swimming in the water too. Their banana shape on the rocks is very distinctive and amusing. Once we really looked they  were everywhere and we counted more and more as we clambered on the rocks and grassy mounds to look at them. There must have been 50+. Reaching a boulder beach we finally had to turn around and retrace our steps. Another wonderful encounter with wildlife.


Going home we actually sat outside to eat our lunch and the sun got hotter and hotter as we sat there. Halfway through September, eating lunch outside with the sun shining so bright we couldn't look at the water and needing sun cream/hats??? We couldn't believe it either.
After lunch we took a ride to Lamlash and Whiting Bay touring the shops and sampling the ice cream again and on the way back  we spotted a man snorkelling in the water. No photo but I do wish I had taken one! Lamlash Bay is Scotland's first No Take Zone, where commercial and private fishing is banned. A campaign by the Community of Arran Seabed Trust (COAST), representing islanders, finally achieved legislation to aid regeneration of the seabed. Since 2014 the water around the whole of the south of the island is a Marine Protected Area (MPA) so there should be no trawling or dredging in the area. Regeneration of the seabed and protection of the habitats is their aim and I wonder what the snorkeller saw under the water??
Guess what? As the weather was nice ….


A lovely Plain Golden Y in the trap this morning along with 9 more Lunar Underwings and a Large Wainscot, so although we haven't had huge numbers we have had some beautiful specimens. Wednesday began with hardly a ripple in the water but a chill in the air until the sun warmed us up.
Our coffee stop this morning after we got moving - which is a quite a job most mornings because of the view - was another of the islands' golf courses. Corrie golf club has a tearoom with more home baking and a man who claims to be a Scot even though he comes from Doncaster! He explained that the town was taken by the scots and signed over to Scotland in the First Treaty of Durham in 1136. English forces regained control of the area later but Doncaster was never formally given back so is technically still part of Scotland!
After delicious refreshments we went to the beach at Sannox we had briefly visited the other day.


The stepping stones are made of great chunks of concrete so are easy to cross and following the footpath above the beach this time we soon encountered a wooded area next to the water. Entering the wood we soon found there were tall cliffs, with amazing caves and rocks  - as well as ….


…. a dinosaur!! Or was it Nessie??
We found fungi growing on old stumps, rowan trees laden with berries as red as Santa's jacket, a Painted Lady and hundreds of Dor beetles. Sadly many of them had been trodden on, which did allow us to see their wonderful colour, but there were still plenty scuttling around.


Coming out of the wood we emerged right next to the burn where it flowed out into the Firth looking over to Ayrshire, where 2 swans were drifting around feeding. Returning along the same path we retraced our footsteps to the shore at Sannox, watching the sail boats out on the water. Plenty of those this week with the calm weather.


A visit to the Brewery was suggested as a conclusion to the days activities - the smell was quite enticing as we got closer. Although not really drinkers, we did sample the beer on offer - it would have been rude not to - right? The cheese shop close by was also frequented - the samples there were more to our liking, but the tea room next door was even better and rounded off our day nicely.
Yet again we woke to a sunny, still morning. Even the birds were quiet this Thursday morning - it felt eerily silent. Heading for Brodick we planned to walk along the beach around the bay. Goat Fell and the other hills were still misty on the top but it was very warm.


The water lapping on the shore was so quiet it hardly audible. This walk was obviously popular and we met and greeted many others having a wander. There was even one lady on her horse!


The walk started by the shore before meandering through the golf course and then rejoining the beach towards the end of the bay. Brodick Castle looked lovely in the sunshine as it poked its head up above the trees under the now-visible top of Goat Fell.


Retracing our steps we headed home via Ross Road, a road that cuts across the southern end of the island, rather than going along the coast road. A single-track road with passing-places that is rather like a roller coaster - up and down with hairpin bends, but spectacular scenery all the way. We saw several buzzards along the way too.
Home for lunch which we ate outside  - again! Too hot to do much this afternoon other than a gentle stroll along the beach, but the weather led to an absolutely beautiful sunset tonight.


It began with a gentle pink hue all over the sky in all directions but proceeded to go a brilliant red and orange. Wow was all we could say!



Friday began sunny again with just a gentle breeze. We sat and watched the birds and the water (again) - including the sight of 2 kayakers rowing past the cottage. Our last full day today, so after coffee in Lamlash we wandered around the village that overlooks Holy Isle.


A ferry boat takes visitors across to the island where you can wander and walk. The Centre for World Peace and Health, where the ferry lands, is open to guests during the summer although a closed Buddhist Retreat is located at the southern end of the island. This retreat is for women but there is a purpose-built centre for men at Samye Dechen Shing, located along the Ross Road.



Lamlash is a sheltered bay that has numerous boats moored during the summer. It has the only police station, secondary school and hospital on the island and also an RNLI lifeboat station. Numerous cafes and shops line the street and a row of estate-worker cottages built by the Duke of Hamilton in the 19th century still dominate the street.


After lunch we made our way home to begin the slightly depressing task of repacking our cases for the journey home tomorrow. More sunshine, but just time to take a few more photos of the whooshing waves!


Then we had to leave and head for Brodick for the ferry. One last ride along the string and along the front at Brodick, but how nice to be able to sit in the sun, looking at the hills, while we waited. A calm crossing again before joining the busy roads (compared to Arran) into Glasgow and beyond.



Another really enjoyable holiday over.

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